Duck Confit Sandwiches at Borough Market, London

Since arriving in London, I have dubbed myself the Girl of Sandwich.  Check out this incredible one I found and covered for Serious Eats‘s A Sandwich A Day (an idea I can really get behind, because I eat a sandwich a day).  Bon app!

Duck Confit Sandwich

Duck Confit Sandwich

Get the whole story on Serious Eats.

I was at Borough Market, walking around after I’d had my requisite chorizo sandwich at Brindisa, when I walked by a huge, steaming paella pot vat of shredded duck. When you see that much duck confit in one place, you’ve got to talk to someone about it, figure out what’s going on, and decide how you can eat it immediately. Fullness should not be prohibitive.

The duck confit sandwich from Le Marché du Quartier at Borough Market is a study in how to defy the French reputation for small, stuffy plates. It’s a big, somewhat soft roll, erupting with duck confit, and it’s quite the bargain at £5 (about $8.15). The French man behind the paella pot takes one of these pre-slathered soft long rolls scraped with a French mustard I believe was Savora, which has notes of sweet baking spices, topped with a handful of requisite arugula. And then on goes an extravagant amount of the hot shredded duck full of soft, fatty bits and those crispy edges that are the best part of confit. The sweeter notes in the mustard tango a bit with the gaminess of the duck. Magic. It’s the most haute hot, sloppy sandwich I’d ever tried. And I can’t wait to line up with the others this weekend, like ducks in a row, waiting to get another bite.

Le Marché du Quartier

Borough Market, 239 Borough High Street, Camberwell, London SE1 1, UK (map)
020 7403 6222; marketquarter.com

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Best Ice Cream on a Stick: The Magnum Hits the US

Kerry Magnum

The Magnum Classic

I’m lucky to have been able to live abroad, but I can be pretty begrudging about it.  I only planned to stay abroad for a year, and then ol’ Mr. English came along, and here I am.  Amidst all my adventure, I spend about 90% of my day missing American food.  Onion rings.  Blue cheese dressing.  A New York slice.  Shack Shack burgers.  Crab, in drawn butter.  Guacamole.  Lobster rolls.  Even Costco hotdogs.  Oh my gosh, I have to stop.

But there are a few things in the UK to which I have become extremely attached.  For those of you out here, I’m talking about Ben’s Cookies, Fox’s Glacier Fruits, This Water, and the now-defunct McDonald’s Indian-inspired veggie burger.  And THE MAGNUM.  The greatest ice cream bar ever.  According to my friend Paul Sonne’s article on the subject in the Wall Street Journal, it is the “world’s top individual frozen snack.”  How could it not be, with a name like Magnum?  Last year, Unilever hired Eva Longoria as the face of the product in Europe, and now Rachel Bilson in the States.  I’m sure you’ve seen the ads.

After we finished our MBA, my friends and I rented this little house in Portugal for a week, and every single day, at the beach, we would sit around deconstructing and devouring Magnum bars.  They’re similar to our Haagen-Dazs bars–the classic is vanilla ice cream in a hard chocolate shell.  But the ice cream is creamier–almost like gelato.  And the shell doesn’t crack and fall all over the place.  It’s thick, and it hugs the sides of the ice cream.  It’s just perfect.  When I saw the add that the caramel (vanilla ice cream and two layers of chocolate sandwiching a layer of caramel) had FINALLY come to America, I yelped.  And apparently, all the usual flavors, like white, dark, almond, classic, and double chocolate are also arriving stateside.  Now, as soon as I am back, there will be one less thing to miss.  And I’m pretty sure I can handle giving up the rest, just for one bite of that crab…

Rachel Bilson for Magnum commercial courtesy of cathace 2000 via YouTube

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French in a Flash: Baked Endive Gratins with Ham and Cheese

RECIPE: Baked Endive Gratin
Endive Gratins

Endive Gratins

Get the whole story at Serious Eats.

I recently had to explain to a will-not-be-named member of my family that endives are contraband in the States.  Or, I should say, packing raw French endives in your suitcase to consume in the States would be…yeah, illegal.

That is how obsessed we are with endives.  Bitter, crunchy, great in salad.  Sure.  But where it’s really at is in the cooked endive, still crunchy, but slightly tender.  Each leaf still holding its own, but collapsing onto the one beneath it like exhausted babushka dolls.  Still bitter, but just ever-so-slightly more mellow.  It’s like you took the muscle man that is endive and gave him that spoonful of sugar to help the medicine go down.  Then, they become so delicious, and so unusual, and delicate, and different.  They are so special–worth smuggling, I think.

Endive gratin is a really traditional dish, and I like that you have the rich voluptuousness of a gratin, and the crisp, bitter verdure of the vegetable.  Endive halves are wrapped in ham, then smothered in a simple bechamel, and covered with Gruyere cheese.  Then, they’re baked until the endive is soft and mellow, and the cheese is bubbly and gooey.  A small green salad with a little lemon juice and fleur de sel and you’re in business.  Almost worth jail time.

Baked Endive Gratin
serves 2

Endive GratinsINGREDIENTS

  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
  • 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup milk
  • Kosher salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 endives, halved
  • 4 thinly slices Black Forest ham
  • 1/2 cup grated Gruyère

PROCEDURE

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.  In a small saucepot, melt the butter over medium heat.  Whisk in the flour, and cook for 1 minute.  Whisk in the milk, and cook 5 minutes over medium heat, whisking often.  Season with salt and pepper.

Wrap each endive in ham.  Pour half the béchamel sauce on the bottom of a baking dish.  Place the endives in the dish, and cover with the remaining sauce.  Top with the cheese, and cover the dish with foil.  Bake 25 minutes, remove the foil, and bake another 30 minutes.

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Categories: 60 Minutes, Eat, French in a Flash, Main Courses, Recipes, Series, Sides, Vegetables
 

Franglais: Blueberry Surprise Vanilla Cream Pots

RECIPE: Blueberry Surprise Vanilla Cream Pots

BlueberriesGet the whole story at The Huffington Post.

I don’t know if they’re still doing this, but I love any surprise that comes with food.  Short of an engagement ring, which I think is a stupid and dangerous thing to bury in anything you might chew.  Think of how many people spend their time making sure there are no rocks in your beans or lettuce, and then you give one to your fiancée so she can chip a tooth before the wedding?  Not the best laid of plans.  Or the best plan to get you…well, you get the picture.

But, those prizes in the Cracker Jack box?  They used to give out little tattoos in the cereal, and I collected all the toys from my Happy Meals.  Once BonBel cheese did a finger puppet promotion and I bought about five sacks so I could have one for each finger.  I love that idea that you’re doing the best thing you can do—eating—and you still get a prize on top of that.  What a wonderful world.

I love this little pot de crème because it’s just like that—a box of delicious Cracker Jacks with an even better surprise down at the bottom.  Starbursts of blueberries, slightly sweetened and cooked down like blueberry pie filling, hidden under a thick pot of vanilla cream.  I love that you stick your spoon unsuspectingly down into—what could be bad about this?—thick, sweet, speckled vanilla cream, and come up with gorgeous indigo bursting berries on the end of your spoon.  Just when you thought dessert couldn’t get any better, it does.

Blueberry Surprise Vanilla Cream Pots
makes 4

BlueberriesINGREDIENTS

  • 5 ounces blueberries
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar plus 3 tablespoons
  • 1 1/4 cups heavy cream
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 1/2 vanilla bean

PROCEDURE

In a small saucepot, boil the blueberries and 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar on medium heat for 12 minutes, until slightly thickened. Spoon the mixture in the bottom of 4 ramekins. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees F. Boil a kettle of water.

Split the vanilla bean and scrape out the seeds. Add the seeds and the bean itself to the cream in a medium saucepot. Heat the vanilla cream on medium-low until bubbles form around the edges of the pot. Meanwhile, in a large measuring cup, whisk the egg yolks with 3 tablespoon sugar until pale. Discard the vanilla pod, and whisk the warm cream quickly into the yolks. Pour over blueberries in the 4 ramekins.

Set the 4 ramekins in a square baking dish, and fill the baking dish halfway with boiled water. Bake at 300 degrees F for 40 minutes, until the center is slightly set. Cool on the counter until the cream pots come to room temperature. Then, cover each with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until completely set, preferably overnight. Eat!

 

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Easy Recipe: What to Cook for Your Boyfriend’s Parents, Part II

RECIPE: Spaghetti Marinara with Arugula and Fresh Mozzarella
Spaghetti Marinara with Arugula and Fresh Mozzarella

Spaghetti Marinara with Arugula and Fresh Mozzarella

After a busy day, I was on for dinner theater again a couple of nights ago.  When I’m too tired to do dinner, and a lot of show, I always opt for pasta.  I love this recipe because it’s so easy, but there’s a little element of the different and gourmet, with the arugula and mozzarella.  The spaghetti sucks up all the marinara sauce, which has that sweet zing from the tomatoes, and then the arugula wilts in, and is slightly bitter and peppery, and the mozzarella just starts to melt and ooze everywhere, and is milky and mild.  So complex for so little work!  It was a hit, so I wanted to share it with you.  Always nice to trot out something that’s an easy A.

Spaghetti Marinara with Arugula and Fresh Mozzarella
serves 4

Spaghetti Marinara with Arugula and Fresh MozzarellaIngredients

  • 1 pound spaghetti
  • Kosher salt
  • 1 24-ounce jar good marinara sauce (recommended: Mario Batali)
  • 1 small bag baby arugula, roughly chopped
  • 1 ball fresh mozzarella, drained and finely chopped
  • Black pepper
  • Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

PROCEDURE

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it.  Add the pasta and cook in your usual way until al dente.  Drain.

In the same pot, heat the marinara sauce over medium heat until it's just starting to bubble.  Add in the arugula, and the pasta.  Season with salt and pepper, and toss with tongs until well combined.  The arugula will wilt slightly.  Top with the mozzarella, toss again, and serve immediately, fresh freshly grated Parmesan on the side.

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GIVEAWAY! Eva Longoria’s Eva’s Kitchen

RECIPE: Eva Longoria's Chunky Guacamole with Serrano Peppers
Eva's Chunky Guacamole on my Black Bean Taco

Eva's Chunky Guacamole on my Black Bean Taco

I’m a cookbook junkie, so when I saw Eva Longoria on Piers Morgan chatting up her guacamole, I thought, really?  But I believe that she loves to cook and eat, and any girl from Texas has got to have a better guacamole recipe than I do.  Last night, I tried out her much-touted recipe for chunky guacamole, which is, as its name would suggest, cut into chunks, rather than mashed all together.  At first I was skeptical, because I love a mushy guac, and I always use lime, where she uses lemon.  Eva, congrats.  It was amazing.  The lemon is nice and sweet, and the chilies are hot, and the whole thing is so fresh and summery.  Instead of piling it up on chips, I warmed up some corn tortillas, and made my own fat-free refried black beans (about 3 cans drained and rinsed black beans, 1/4 cup water, a good palmful each of cumin, coriander, and mild chili powder, and then a sprinkling of cinnamon, warmed up over a medium flame and slightly mashed), and piled up warm corn tortilla tacos with the black beans, some super sharp English white cheddar, and the chunk guac on top.  We were so desperate for the stuff that between the three of us, we at 6 avocados.

I confess that part of my motivation behind doing this giveaway was that I could get to make some Mexican food, which I sorely miss when I’m in London.  America is so full of great ethnic foods, because we all come from every end of the Earth.  In my house, it was always French and Moroccan.  But Eva was pretty lucky to grow up on guacamole.  To win a free copy of Eva Longoria’s cookbook Eva’s Kitchen, which does include this chunky guacamole recipe, leave a comment with your favorite ethnic dish from growing up, or what imported cuisine you just can’t get enough of.  For me, it’s a tie between Mémé’s Moroccan olive stew and, of course, guacamole.  I’ll choose a comment a random next Thursday!  In the meantime, I suggest you make this guacamole…

Also in the meantime, I want to give a little shout-out to Mr. English, who actually created his own recipe for the occasion, a kind of Agua Fresca.  He muddled together fresh mint leaves from the garden, sliced limes, and a simple syrup I showed him how to construct by heating together equal parts water and raw sugar.  Then, he topped it off with sparkling water.  It’s perfect summer, and counteracts the heat in those chili peppers.

Mr. English's Agua Fresca

Mr. English's Agua Fresca

This giveaway closes Thursday, May 19, 2011 at midnight EST.

Eva Longoria's Chunky Guacamole with Serrano Peppers
Adapted from Eva's Kitchen by Eva Longoria, Clarkson Potter, 2011

Chunky GuacamoleIngredients

  • 6 ripe avocados, cut into 1/2-inch dice
  • 4 medium ripe tomatoes, cut into 1/2-inch dice
  • 1 large white onion, finely chopped
  • 1/2 bunch fresh cilantro, leaves chopped
  • 1 serrano pepper, finely minced
  • Juice from 4 small lemons (about 8 tablespoons)
  • 2 teaspoons Kosher salt or to taste

PROCEDUREIn a large bowl, place the avocadoes, tomatoes, onion, cilantro, serrano, lemon juice, and salt.  Stir gently until well combined.

Transfer to a serving bowl and serve.

NOTES

Because I am in London, I have to admit that I had to do some substitutions.  I couldn't find a serrano chili, so I used a long red unlabeled chili that they had at the supermarket.  No white onions, so I used red.  No Kosher salt, so I used Maldon.  It tasted amazing, so it's a resilient recipe.

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Categories: 15 Minutes, Appetizers & Hors D’Oeuvres, Eat, Finds, For a Crowd, Recipes, Sides, Vegetables, Vegetarian
 

All the Pretty Paris Meals, Third Edition

I know this may seem like cruel and unusual punishment, but please try to see it as vicarious deliciousness.  I just got back to London from a weekend in Paris (and I will never get over my American astonishment that that is possible), and as is par for the course, here is what I got to eat.  I wish I could share a bite with each of you, but pictures will have to suffice.  More details from the trip to come!

Restaurant Paul

15 Place Dauphine, 75001

Tomato Tartare with Anchovies

Tomato Tartare with Anchovies

Tuna Tartare with Basil

Tuna Tartare with Basil

Green Salad

Green Salad

Rillettes...

Rillettes...

...with, but of course, bread

...with, but of course, bread

Pierre Hermé

72 rue Bonaparte, 75006

Olive Oil-Vanilla and Green Asparagus-Hazelnut Macarons

Olive Oil-Vanilla and Green Asparagus-Hazelnut Macarons

Berthillon

31 Rue St Louis en l’ile, 75004

Fraise des Bois Sorbet with Crème Chantilly

Fraise des Bois Sorbet with Crème Chantilly

Fraise des Bois SorbetLe Bistrot de l’Alycastre

2 Rue Clément, 75006

Tomato and White Asparagus Tartare with Lobster

Tomato and White Asparagus Tartare with Lobster

Broiled Breton Lobster with Ribbons of Vegetables

Broiled Breton Lobster with Ribbons of Vegetables

Cheese Plate: Cow, Goat, Greens, Pistou

Cheese Plate: Cow, Goat, Greens, Pistou

Lime Blossom Tea

Lime Blossom Tea

Les Deux Magots

8 Place Jean-Paul Sartre et Simone de Beauvoir, 75006

Bread and Butter, and the best Pink Grapefruit Juice

Bread and Butter, and the best Pink Grapefruit Juice

Stand on the Side of Les Champs-Elysées

Cheese Crèpes!

Cheese Crèpes!

Le Comptoir

9 Carrefour de Odeon, 75006

Warm White Asparagus with Béarnaise

Warm White Asparagus with Béarnaise

Seasonal Vegetable Salad

Seasonal Vegetable Salad

Salade Niçoise

Salade Niçoise

Orange Salad with Orange Flower Water and Almonds

Orange Salad with Orange Flower Water and Almonds

Ladurée

21 Rue Bonaparte, 75006

Granny Smith Apple, Lily of the Valley, and Pistachio Macarons

Granny Smith Apple, Lily of the Valley, and Pistachio Macarons

Chocolate Religieuse

Chocolate Religieuse

For more Paris drooling, see All the Pretty Paris Meals, Part 1 and Part 2

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