The Secret Ingredient (Dijon Mustard) Part 2: Warm Green Bean Salad with Shallots and Mustard

RECIPE: Warm Green Bean Salad with Shallots and Mustard

Warm Green Bean Salad with Shallots and Mustard

Warm Green Bean Salad with Shallots and Mustard

Okay, so strictly speaking, this recipe does not use Dijon mustard. But if we change this month’s ingredient to Mustard from Dijon, then this still counts. These green beans make use of old-fashioned mustard (moutarde à l’ancien) from Dijon, and I’ve always loved the name “moutarde à l’ancien” because it makes it sound like it’s the true, original Dijon mustard.

The truth of the matter is, I hardly ever use one without the other. I add a spoonful of Dijon mustard for creaminess, and spice, and then a spoonful of whole grain mustard for texture and visuality. Whole grain mustard from Dijon has a very similar flavor profile to Dijon mustard—the tang and acidity of the wine, the spice of the mustard, but the mustard seeds are left whole, and so it has that crunch, and the beautiful look of being studded with golden mustard seeds.

I was inspired to make my own version of this dish after seeing something similar in a French cooking magazine. Warm blanched haricots verts, tossed in a warm vinaigrette of soft shallots, olive oil, white wine vinegar, and grain mustard. I love that the white wine vinegar serves to enhance the acidity of the white wine within the mustard, giving the salad a new-pickled quality. The shallots, and even the chervil on top, are somewhat sweet, and counter that acidity. It is so good, if you’re looking for a different kind of vegetable, look no further. This is my holy vegetable grail.

The recipe and writing are excerpted from my weekly column The Secret Ingredient on Serious Eats.  Click HERE for this post.

Warm Green Bean Salad with Shallots and Mustard
serves 4

Warm Green Bean Salad with Shallots and MustardINGREDIENTS

  • Kosher salt

  • 7 ounces trimmed haricots verts

  • 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

  • 1 shallot, thinly sliced

  • 1 1/2 teaspoons white wine vinegar

  • 1 teaspoon grain mustard

  • Black pepper

  • 1 tablespoon fresh chervil, torn


Bring a pot of water to boil, salt the water, and blanch the haricots verts for until tender, about 3 minutes.  Drain.

Put the pot back on medium-low heat, and once the pot is dry, add the oil.  Add the shallots, and sauté, stirring often, until just soft and fragrant, but not golden, about 4 minutes.  Add the vinegar, mustard, and black pepper.  Stir to incorporate all the ingredients.  Add the haricots verts back to the pain, and toss with the warm vinaigrette.  Plate the beans, and top with the chervil.  Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

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Categories: 15 Minutes, Easy, Eat, Recipes, Salad, Series, Sides, Soup & Salad, The Secret Ingredient, Vegetables, Vegetarian

French in a Flash: Herby Goat Cheese Ball (with multigrain baguette!)

RECIPE: Herby Goat Cheese
Herby Goat Cheese

Herby Goat Cheese

Right now, all I want to do is eat outside.  Al frescoEn plein air.  It’s summer, but it’s also August, which means summer’s a temporary situation.  And I’m not one to let anything pass, a sample sale or a season, without taking full advantage.

I live on a little garden, and I’ve been making picnic foods for most of my meals.  Taking them outside, sitting on my blanket made out of sweatshirt fleece, and feasting.  This recipe is simple enough, and maybe it’s not the first time you’ve seen something similar, but it’s all I’ve wanted, cold and fresh, accompanied by icy champagne and lazy conversation.

My inspiration was Boursin, a family favorite in our house: a crumbly, creamy cheese studded with fresh herbs and garlic.  I roll fresh chèvre cheese into a round, and roll it in chopped fresh basil, purple basil, mint, parsley, chervil, chives and thyme.  And some grated garlic.  You can use whatever fresh herbs you fancy.  Then, I get a knife, and some multigrain baguette, and get eating.  C’est tout.  Perfect for déjeuner, or dîner, sur l’herbe.

Herbed Goat CheeseThis story and recipe are excerpted from my weekly column French in a Flash on Serious Eats.

Herby Goat Cheese
serves 6 to 8

Herby Goat CheeseINGREDIENTS

  • 9 ounces fresh goat cheese, room temperature

  • 1/3 cup chopped fresh herbs, like parsley, chervil, chives, mint, basil, purple basil

  • 1 small clove garlic, grated

  • Salt and pepper to taste

  • 1/2 multigrain baguette, sliced into 1/4-inch rounds


Spray a ramekin with nonstick spray, and line it with plastic wrap.  Smooth the goat cheese into the ramekin, pressing down to form it to the shape of the little bowl.  Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate 1 hour.

Mix the herbs, garlic, salt and pepper.  Unmold the cheese, and press the herb mixture so it sticks on all sides of the cheese.  Set the herbed cheese on a plate, and scatter the multigrain baguette slices all around.  Allow to come to room temperature for 15 minutes, and serve.

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Categories: 15 Minutes, Appetizers & Hors D’Oeuvres, Bread & Butter, Dips, Spreads, Preserves, Easy, Eat, For a Crowd, French in a Flash, Recipes, Series, Vegetarian

Working Girl Dinners: Cheapskate Spaghetti

RECIPE: Cheapskate Spaghetti

Cheapskate Spaghetti

Cheapskate Spaghetti

I just moved into a new apartment in London with Mr. English.  And I’ve been doing a lot of what I call “apartment cooking.”  I don’t have all my pots and pans yet, the kitchen’s small, and frankly, I just want to feed us, not Cook with a capital C.  I’ve stocked my little pantry, and I’ve been referring to it every meal time as if it were the Bible.  That’s how I came up with Sunday’s Tuna Bruschetta, and that’s how I came up with cheapskate pasta.

It’s not a total original–it’s something I’ve heard of, but never had, and never made.  It’s spaghetti, with olive oil, garlic, chili, anchovy, and parsley.  While the spaghetti is boiling away, the oil is infused over the heat with the garlic, chili flakes, and anchovy paste.  Long before the pasta is done, the sauce is ready.  And then you have a spicy, salty, nutty, light pasta that you want to eat way too much of.  I’ve made it, including for this video, four times this week.  Last night, we finished the whole pot between the two of us.  And the other time, when we had some leftovers, Mr. English caught me red handed, standing in front of the open fridge, shoveling it cold into my mouth.  (Tastes just as good that way, you’ll be happy to know).

Don’t let the anchovy paste intimidate you–you won’t even know it’s in there, except that something in the background tastes really, really good.  And if you’re having company, serve this along with some roasted whole fish.  I can’t think of anything I’d rather eat right now.

Cheapskate Spaghetti
serves 2, with leftovers if you're lucky

Cheapskate SpaghettiINGREDIENTS

  • 1 pound spaghetti

  • 1/3 cup olive oil

  • 5 cloves garlic, grated

  • 1 tablespoon anchovy paste

  • 1/4 teaspoon chili flakes

  • Small handful of flat leaf parsley, chopped

  • Salt

  • Pepper

  • Parmesan


Bring a big pot of water to boil, salt it well, and drop in the spaghetti.  Stir, and cook until al dente.

Meanwhile, in a big sauté pan, heat the oil on medium heat and add the garlic, chili, and anchovy, stirring to break up the anchovy paste and spread out the garlic.  Cook until the garlic is super fragrant, but not yet brown, no more than 3 minutes.  Shut off the oil, and let it sit off to the side.

Drain the spaghetti, and toss it with the olive oil, garlic, chili, and anchovy.  Add the chopped parsley, and stir it through.  Season with salt and pepper, lightly, and top with grated Parmesan.  Serve!

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Categories: 15 Minutes, Cheap, Easy, Eat, Main Courses, Recipes, Series, Sides, Starches, Watch, Working Girl Dinners



The Mirepoix Town Hall

I loved the little town of Mirepoix, even though I guess, strictly speaking, it doesn’t have the grandiosity of Monte Carlo, or Cannes, or St. Tropez.  The breathtaking, terrible beauty of the Provençal perched villages of Les Baux, or Eze.  Or the charm of the little fishing villages like Cassis.  What I found in the Midi-Pyrenées region was, instead, a kind of rustic simplicity and nonchalance that was completely disarming and refreshing.


The Market Square

I think of being in the Midi-Pyrenées as like being in the Deep South, for two reasons: pork fat, and a thick accent.  And both of those are meant to be sincere compliments.  Mirepoix is a small medieval town in the heart of the region.  There’s not much to it…a modern outer town that leads up to a casual fortress.  We walked through a parting in the stone walls, and down a close little corridor-lane.  Suddenly, the square was upon us.  Leaning little plaster and beam houses, bordering a perfect square, laced up with swinging, hanging lights, brimming with stalls, dancing to a little four piece band that consisted of a washboard, a clarinet, a tuba, and a fiddle.


The Old Ad Vendor

MIREPOIX Cheese and Sausage

The Cheese and Sausage Vendor, with the best free sample policy ever

MIREPOIX Caviar d'Aubergine

I spread some of this spicy eggplant dip on toasted baguette...delicious.

MIREPOIX Pain d'Epices

I had the pain d'épices for breakfast, with yogurt.

Somehow, although no one had a squire or a coat of arms, it was just as I pictured the Middle Ages.  A bustling market and drunken jollity.  We stopped at every stall.  We tasted cured hams, coppa, rosette, Bayonne, smoked saucisson, until we were full.  We bought some gorgeous and unidentifiable cheese.  I bought a pain d’epice, or gingerbread loaf, that was made with exactly 50% honey.  I stopped at an ad vendor, who sold black and white ads torn with precision from magazines from the 1910s to 1940s, for 5 Euros.  I bought a fabulous pen-sketched Hermes ad from 1930, and have since framed it and hung it over my dresser.

MIREPOIX Cassoulet

My first cassoulet...

The sun was setting as we took our seats at the outdoor café.  I ordered the cassoulet, the one from a jar that I mentioned in this post.  As I spooned beans and pork fat scrumptiously into my mouth, the band came over and tooted a tune, something I seemed to recognize, that swung around in my head like Cole Porter for the next week.  The bulbs of the swinging lights winked overhead, my Hermes ad and pain d’epice nestled against my leg.  And there was something to uncommonly special about this very common town.  It was spirit, a desire to be out, and about, and part of everything, that kept the town alive, and lively, for literally a thousand years.


And the band played on...

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Categories: Toulouse, Voyages

Franglais: Black Bruised Berry Meringue Mash

RECIPE: Black Bruised Berry Meringue Mash
Bruised Berry Merginue Mash

Black Bruised Berry Merginue Mash

There are times for frilly, doily-edged tarts.  For desserts that come after a meal and before you stop eating.  That is not what I want right now.

Now, I feel like something so naughty, I will grin about it and blush afterwards.  I want to throw caution to the wind, exchanging an extra pound for ten minutes of sweet, conscientiously and deliciously deliberate sweet tooth pleasure.  I don’t want to sit down with a fork and a tiny prim plate.  I want to stand in front of the fridge, not with a spoon, but with a ladle, and INDULGE.  Not because it’s after dinner.  Not because I’m hungry.  But because it’s too damn good to put down.

So I start with Eton Mess, than English dessert made from strawberries, cream, and crusted meringue.  And then I knock it around a little, turning it from strawberries and cream to the blue-purple-black of a bruise.  Blackberries and blueberries, instead of strawberries.  Crumbled meringues (for the requisite sweetness, crunch, and body).  And then whipped cream punched up with crème de cassis, black currant liqueur.  The juices of the berries start to run.  There is that little bite from the liquor.  The cream is fluffy and the meringues are fluffy.  You can make just this amount, and eat the whole thing, or quadruple it, and smash it into a trifle bowl.  The result is mayhem.  Whipped cream on your nose.  Berry juice on your clothes.  Bacchanalian diet disaster.

It’s so good.

This recipe and excerpt is from my weekly column Franglais at The Huffington Post.  Click here to get the whole story.

Black Bruised Berry Meringue Mash
serves 2

Bruised Berry Merginue MashINGREDIENTS

  • ½ cup heavy cream

  • 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons granulated sugar

  • 1 tablespoon crème de cassis

  • ¾ cup roughly crumbled meringue (about 1 crumbled meringue nest)

  • ½ cup blackberries

  • ½ cup blueberries


Use a hand mixer to beat the cream to soft peaks.  Add the sugar and crème de cassis, and beat until just stiff enough to be called whipped cream.

Use a silicone spatula to fold the meringue and berries into the cream.  Use the tip of the spatula to smash a few berries.  Spoon the mixture into two glass dessert cups or ramekins.  Serve!


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Categories: 15 Minutes, Desserts, Easy, Eat, Franglais, Fruit, Recipes, Series, Vegetarian

GIVEAWAY! Jessica Seinfeld’s Double Delicious: Good Food for Busy, Complicated Lives

Double Delicious

Double Delicious, by Jessica Seinfeld

I have professional crushes–and they’re always women.  Leave the romantic crushes for the men.  Professional crushes are women who do what I do, or something I wish I did, in a way that I find so tantalizing that I wish I did it too.  Does that make sense?  Jessica Seinfeld is one of my professional crushes.  And I don’t have many.  I’m not that kind of girl.

I was somewhat less interested in Jessica’s first book, Deceptively Delicious, in which she hid fruit and veggie purées in home cooked kids’ food, because I don’t have kids.  But her second book, Double Delicious, is for me.  Jessica writes healthed-up versions of comfort foods like Macaroni and Cheese, Black Bean Burgers, Shrimp Dumplings, and Sweet and Sour Meatballs.  All using whole grains, lots of fruit and vegetables, and low fat dairy here and there.  Her children, famed New York nutritionist Joy Bauer, and hilarious comedian husband Jerry all dot the book with their opinions on the different dishes.  It’s great…like her website Do It Delicious, where she and friend Ally Wentworth make super easy grown up dishes for anyone who thinks they can’t cook.

I have a copy of the book!  Just leave a comment with your favorite childhood comfort food.  If you have come up with any ways to make it healthy, leave that too!  I’ll choose a comment at random in a week, and the book is yours.  Good luck!

This giveaway is now closed.

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Categories: Finds

I’m Lovin’ the Croque McDo

MENTON McDo Croque McDo Packaging

The Croque McDo

I’m a total sucker for fast food, as I’ve said SO many times.  I guess you would think that a French food writer might be something of a snob.  I’m a bons, the opposite of a snob.  Snob backwards, inside out, and sideways.  I could eat street food all day long.  And often do.

So, it was no surprise to anyone that I mandated several stops at French McDonald’s.  And guess what.  French McDonald’s offers a croque monsieur, a “Croque McDo.”  How cute is that?  Even better than the fish stick Happy Meal I get in London.

MENTON McDo Croque McDo

REVEALED! Inside the Croque McDo

So, I did the Croque McDo Happy Meal, and this was no American Happy Meal.  The croque monsieur had a very ooey-gooey Swiss cheese that melted into almost a fondue, between a crisply toasted set of bread slices that seemed like a Thomas’ English muffin without the nooks and crannies.  And the ham was actually my favorite part.  Great just shy of smoky flavor, good texture.  Trying to be grown up about my little Happy Meal experiment, I chose cherry tomatoes instead of fries, cantaloupe instead of cookies, and Evian instead of Coke.  All of them were offered, which I couldn’t believe.  The little ham and cheese sandwich was great, and I loved that I could get everything else fresh and healthy.  The cherry tomatoes were the best part–fresh, and bursting sweet and tart in my mouth.

MENTON McDo Tomatoes

I'm lovin': Tomatoes instead of Potatoes


Fruit: Why French Women Don't Get Fat

Apparently, McDonald’s has been undergoing a kind of makeover in Europe, according to Mr. English.  I seem to remember something in the back of my mind telling me that French people hate McDonald’s, as a symbol of American cultural aggression.  So McDonald’s has changed its color from red to green, and started sourcing produce from the region.  (Check out this link to French McDonald’s–it’s hard to recognize a green Micky D’s!)  Ads on TV were touting that McDo’s famous fries were made only from French and Belgian spuds.  Even McDo is cashing in on the locavore trend in France!

MENTON McDo Big Mac Pain Complet

The Whole Wheat Big Mac

I also noticed that French McDonald’s offers the Big Mac on a whole wheat bun.  They do specialty sandwiches, like the Comté burger, written up to high praise on Serious Eats by my colleague Kenji Lopez-Alt.  French McDonald’s is celebrating French food by topping speciality burgers with regional toppings, like real AOL Comté cheese, rosette de Lyon salami, et cetera.  I love French McDonald’s.  Using what was once a pillar of American influence and change as a place to celebrate and exalt French food.  I’m lovin’ it!

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Categories: Côte d'Azur, Paris, Provence, Toulouse, Voyages