French in a Flash: Summer Berry Rissoles

RECIPE: Summer Berry Rissoles
Summer Berry Rissoles

Summer Berry Rissoles

If you like my Sorrel Shrimp Rissoles, then I know you’ll like the original, my Summer Berry Rissoles. Rissoler means to brown, and the way we learned rissoles in culinary school was to stuff balls of puff pastry with sweet syrup-poached pear. Delicious, but once again, you had to spend a lot of time and effort on your little donut hole reward.
 These are easy. Start with frozen puff pastry, and some beautiful berries, and then proceed as if making fresh ravioli. Fry them up, toss them with sugar, and you’re done. The outside is like a crusty doughnut with a million layers, but soft, and sweet, as well, and the inside is like a starburst of sweettart berries that are just turning from fresh fruit to pie filling as they explode in your mouth.

If you never thought you’d ever eat fried puff pastry, don’t mock it till you’ve tried it. These are your own homemade French Pop’ems. Bon app!

Summer Berries

Summer Berries

For the full story and recipe from my French in a Flash column at Serious Eats, click here.

Summer Berry Rissoles
makes 16 rissoles

Summer Berry RissolesIngredients

  • 2 sheets frozen puff pastry, thawed

  • 1/2 cup raspberries

  • 1/2 cup blueberries

  • 2 teaspoons flour

  • 2 teaspoons sugar

  • 1 egg, beaten

  • Vegetable oil for frying

  • Powdered sugar


  1. Fill a pot halfway with vegetable oil, and begin heating it to 350 degrees F.

  2. Using some bench flour, roll the cold but thawed puff pastry out into a square that is about 12 inches on each side.  Cut 4 equal strips across the pastry.

  3. Toss the berries with the flour and the sugar.

  4. Making the rissoles is just like making ravioli.  One strip of dough will be the base, on which you place your filling.  Another strip of dough will blanket over the filling, and then you will stamp out the ravioli.  So, begin with 2 strips of dough.  Brush each lightly with beaten egg, to help the top and bottom pastries stick together.  In your mind, divide the base strip of dough into 4 squares.  Alternating, place either 2 raspberries or 3 blueberries in the center of each of those squares.  Place the top layer of dough, egg wash side down, over the dough dotted with berries.  Use your fingers to create little pockets, and press the dough lightly all around and between the filling, so any air gets out, and so the dough sticks firmly together.  Flour a 2 ½-inch ravioli stamp, and stamp out the little round, fluted rissoles.

  5. When the oil reaches 350 degrees F, fry the rissoles in 2 batches for about 5 to 6 minutes, until golden and flakey.  Drain on paper town, and dust generously with powdered sugar, like Tinkerbell scattering fairy dust.  Eat them when they’re still too hot.

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Categories: Desserts, Eat, French in a Flash, Fruit, Pastry, Recipes, Series, Vegetarian

French in a Flash: Sorrel Shrimp Rissoles with Artichoke Aïoli

RECIPE: Sorrel Shrimp Rissoles with Artichoke Aïoli
Sorrel Shrimp Beignets

Sorrel Shrimp Beignets

I know, I’ve been frying things a lot in my column lately. The squirrels who tumble around Central Park this time of year like fat ladies in fur coats inspire me to eat myself into winter. The good thing about these shrimp rissoles is that if you have tremendous willpower, you can eat just one. I dare you.

These are an unorthodox take on rissoles. I take jumbo shrimp, and coat them with one leaf of citrusy, grassy sorrel. Then I wrap them in sheets of filo dough coated in olive oil, and fry them, or rissoler them, until they are golden and crisp. I make an easy artichoke heart and garlic aioli to wipe them in. The result is a scattering of golden shards of crisp filo when you bite into the rissole, and then the tart tang of the sorrel, and this super-juicy just-cooked shrimp. Then, the pungent garlic and the chunky artichoke. It’s so good all together. And the good thing is, it can be made almost entirely from the pantry: shrimp, artichoke hearts, and filo dough from the freezer, mayonnaise, garlic, and olive oil from the fridge and pantry. Make them, and squirrel them away before anyone else can get their bright eyes and bushy tail near them!

Artichoke Aïoli

Artichoke Aïoli

You can find the full story and recipe from my column French in a Flash on Serious Eats. Bon app!

Sorrel Shrimp Rissoles with Artichoke Aïoli
serves 4

Sorrel Shrimp BeignetsIngredients for the Shrimp Rissoles

  • 12 8-12 count shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails on

  • 12 sorrel leaves

  • 12 sheets filo dough

  • Olive oil

  • Vegetable oil

  • Salt

Ingredients for the Artichoke Aïoli

  • 1 clove garlic

  • 4.5 ounces thawed frozen artichoke hearts (1/2 packet)

  • ½ cup mayonnaise

  • Zest and juice ¼ lemon

Procedure for the Shrimp Rissoles

  1. Fill a cast iron skillet halfway up with vegetable oil.  Bring to 330 degrees F.

  2. You will make 4 stacks of filo, 3 sheets thick.  Lay down 2 sheets of filo, brush thoroughly with olive oil, and place the final sheet on top.  Cut into 3 equal strips.  Then season the shrimp with salt.  Place a shrimp on the edge of 1 strip of filo dough, leaving a slight border.  Place the sorrel leaf on the shrimp, and then wrap in the dough, tucking in corners as you go.  Repeat for all 12 shrimp.

  3. Fry the shrimp in 3 batches, 3 minutes per side.  Drain on paper towel, and sprinkle with salt.

Procedure for the Artichoke Aïoli

  1. Pulse the garlic in a mini food processor until it is smashed to smithereens.  Then, add in the artichoke hearts, and pulse to rubble.  Add the mayonnaise and lemon zest and juice, and some salt.  The pulse to a chunky paste.

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Categories: Appetizers & Hors D’Oeuvres, Eat, For a Crowd, French in a Flash, Recipes, Series

The Secret Ingredient (Liquid Smoke) Part II: Smoky Bison Sandwiches

RECIPE: Smoky Bison Sandwiches
Smoky Bison Sandwich

Smoky Bison Sandwich

Get the whole story at Serious Eats.

Perhaps the most intriguing aspect of liquid smoke is how it’s made. It may seem like some magic potion corked inside a bottle, since how could smoke ever become a liquid? But in fact, the process is so sensible and straightforward that I am not surprised by how inexpensive the product is, but rather by how obscure it remains.

Liquid smoke starts with wood. The two most popular varieties are mesquite and hickory, but apple and pecan woods are also used. The wood is heated to a slow smolder until smoke begins to waft from the hot wood. The smoke, and its flavor, is trapped in tiny particles of water vapor. Once cooled, the water vapor condenses back into liquid form, still containing all the flavor. Liquid smoke is then aged, and finally filtered before being bottled.

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Categories: Recipes, Series, The Secret Ingredient

French in a Flash: Lavender-Apricot Chicken Drumsticks

RECIPE: Lavender Apricot Chicken Drumsticks

**This recipe was featured in Oprah Winfrey’s O magazine!**

Lavender Apricot Chicken Drumsticks

Lavender Apricot Chicken Drumsticks

I am not the most cut and dry person. I am verbose. I like excess. These are my faults, and I hang them on the laundry line for you to peruse at your leisure. So it seems ironic that someone so partial to inefficiency should claim that French food can be made quickly, and easily. But I believe it in my gut as truly and deeply as I believe my gut when it tells me I’m hungry. Sometimes, I believe it even before it tells me! So when I come up with something truly simple and easy but fabulous, well, I have a bit of a glow around me for a few days.

Last week’s French in a Flash is just such a recipe. Cheap and cheerful chicken drumsticks, my favorite part anyway, are roasted to crisp, and then brushed like a Cezanne in apricot preserves and speckled with lavender blossoms. The glaze bubbles and crusts in a sweet-savory sticky sensation all over the chicken, and that lavender partners perfectly in a Provencal duet that is so unexpected and delicious, but requires almost no effort or expense. Sorry if my chest is more puffed out than the poor old chicken’s, but I’m happy with this one! I hope you’ll try it.


Dried, Edible Lavender

For the full story and recipe on Serious Eats, click here!

Bon app!

Lavender Apricot Chicken Drumsticks
serves 4 to 6

Lavender Apricot Chicken DrumsticksIngredients

  • 3 pounds chicken drumsticks (about 10 drumsticks)

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil

  • Salt and pepper

  • 1 cup apricot preserves

  • 1 tablespoon boiling water

  • Dried edible lavender blossoms


  1. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F.

  2. Toss the chicken with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.  Place a Silpat over a baking sheet with a lip, and lay the chicken out on the baking sheet.  Roast for 30 minutes.

  3. After 30 minutes, the chicken should be golden.  If it needs help, broil them for a few minutes to get the skin crisp and golden.

  4. Meanwhile, in a mini food processor, wiz together the apricot preserves and the tablespoon of boiling water.

  5. After 30 minutes, if you have not already turned on your broiler, do so.  Brush the chicken with half the apricot glaze, and place under the broiler for about 5 minutes, until the glaze starts to bubble and turn golden brown.  Then, turn the chicken over, glaze the other side, and broil until that side is bubbly and golden.

  6. Remove the chicken from the oven, and pile the legs up on a platter.  Sprinkle with lavender to taste.

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Categories: 60 Minutes, Easy, Eat, French in a Flash, Main Courses, Poultry, Recipes, Series

The Godfather

Jamie's Mozzarella with Pesto

Jamie's Mozzarella with Pesto

Whenever there is something new in my life, I suddenly lose my appetite. I’ve always fed myself well, and been suspicious of those frail girls who claim “Oh, I forgot to eat!” How can one forget to eat? Or not have time to eat? But at the end of the day, when there is a new boy in my life, or I move to a new place, or I start a new job—there I am, too nervous and busy and strung out to do the most simplest human task of hunting food down on a supermarket shelf, gathering it onto my plate, and, after all is said and done, eating it.

Jamie's Salad Balsamic

Jamie's Salad Balsamic

There’s no new boy, just dear old Mr. English. And no new place. It has, after all, has been standing for a thousand years. But an MBA, that terrifying blazing bull’s eye I’d always hope my arrow might somehow meander into, that was, and continues to be, bright, shining, and new. And according to tradition, I was accidentally starving.

I have been lucky and have found myself three friends in an unlikely place. Carolina, an Argentine-American I can spot like a flare from across the room for her long, nymph-platinum hair and megawatt smile. Ola, a Nigerian-Londoner beauty, who shares my birthday. And Angie, a Roman firecracker, who seems like nothing would ever intimidate her, where I have never felt more intimidated in all my life.

Jamie's Pasta with Truffles

Jamie's Pasta with Truffles

Carolina, Ola, and I were standing around the front hall of the school, holding jelly beans. Also known as lunch in our new world. It was family done, and none of us had any family for miles and miles. Angie came trotting over with her parents. They were exactly as I expected Italians to be: he, graying and distinguished in a gray suit, and you just knew he slept in suits, woke in suits, played in suits, and worked in suits. And the she, elegant in all black, big hair worked in Roman curls, and lips stained and pouting. The little American inside me screamed: ITALIAN!

Before long, they were embracing us, and I was beginning to realize there wasn’t much difference between Brooklyn Italian and Roman Italian. Everyone was talking a mile a minute, and the next thing we new, we were invited to the family lunch.

Jamie's Spaghetti Bolognese

Jamie's Spaghetti Bolognese

We went to Jamie Oliver’s Italian restaurant cheap and cheerful corner restaurant, and before I knew what was happening, antipasti had been ordered for the table. Along with loaves of bread, hunks of focaccia and swords of bread sticks. Glugs of olive oil seemed to be spilling down from heaven. The waiter came and took our order, and Caro, Ola, and I all ordered some pasta. “Penne Arrabiata,” I requested, thinking that after something so dry as accounting, I’d need something hot and devilishly spicy. And my new godfather leaned over and whispered, “And what will you have after your pasta?”

Of course, I felt like an absolute ignoramus when I realized that to him, pasta was an appetizer, and I should have thought twice before ordering the wrong course. I think he seemed slightly alarmed at what he thought would turn out to be such an enormous order for a generally small person. “Oh, just the pasta for me, please,” I flushed. But then I bit my lip, and had to hold something in. I was homesick. I missed, pathetic as this sounds at my age, my Maman. And though this man, my new friend’s father, spoke with an urbane Italian accent and ordered his pasta as an appetizer, I recognized something in his voice—concern, care, generosity. As he asked us about boyfriends and classes, he declared, “Because your fathers are not here, I am your father! And they would want to know, so I want to know!”

I have never felt so welcome, or so revived. At the end of the meal, after the olive oil was wiped off the table and the macchiato foam had been licked off lips, the godfather turned to me and said in simple English, “I like you.” I grinned and said back, “I like you too. Thank you for lunch.”

Jamie's Italian

Jamie's Italian

But I was thankful for more than penne, and I hope he knew that. I think when I forget to eat, I also forget what eating is about: sitting at a table with people who can say at the end of the meal, “I like you.” And you can say, “I like you too.” When someone pays for your lunch, they are not buying you something you cannot buy yourself. Hopefully, even in these difficult years, pasta is not out of reach. He buys you pasta, but he gives you hospitality, and humanity, and in some very basic form, love. I hope that the busier I get, I will not let myself go hungry for any of those things again.

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Categories: Oxford, Restaurants, Voyages

The Secret Ingredient (Liquid Smoke) Part I: Black Bean Soup with Smoked Sour Cream

RECIPE: Black Bean Soup with Smoked Sour Cream
Black Bean Soup with Smoked Sour Cream

Black Bean Soup with Smoked Sour Cream

Get the whole story at Serious Eats.

Liquid smoke has long held my fascination, but I was a novice before experimenting with it for this column. My first impressions? It costs only a couple of dollars, can be found near the barbecue sauce, and looks like diluted soy sauce. I found it in hickory and mesquite varieties, and though I used hickory for these recipes, just go wherever your heart takes you.

Kind of like rose water, liquid smoke is more of an essence that hits your nose than a taste that hits your tongue.

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Categories: 30 Minutes, Cheap, Easy, Eat, Recipes, Series, Soup, Soup & Salad, The Secret Ingredient

The Power of One: Pinky Lilani


Pinky Lilani

Pinky Lilani. Photograph from

Two days ago, I did a most unusual thing: I started my MBA. I still don’t feel right saying it. Not because millions of people don’t do MBAs each year. They do; it’s quite usual, in fact. But me. A food writer. A cook. Well, that’s usual.

Over the summer, we were sent instructions on how to prepare our resumés. My usual resumé is a flurry of publications and recordings (perhaps flurry is an overcompensation, but it does creep over the one page limit) in a lovely font, using all sorts of little formatting tricks that I grin over like a satisfied Cheshire Cat who just swallowed the Dormouse. And yet, here was this form from the business school, tell me in no wavering manner that Times New Roman 10 point was my only option.

I compared my CV, my curriculum vitae, or, loosely translated, the story of my life, next to this model they’d provided, what I supposed to be the average life story of my soon-to-be classmates. Work experience at the top, please: Analyst, Goldman Sachs, Consultant, McKinsey. Soon, I began to realize that the font wasn’t the only way I was supposed to conform. Okay, I breathed deeply, trying to fill out this worksheet with things like Food Columnist. I began to prioritize the wrong things, placing Penguin Intern above my BBC recordings, simply because it was done in an office, and I thought they’d find it more legitimate. By the time I had finished “Education” and “Employment,” my camel’s back was nearly broken. But instead of throwing on a straw, they threw on a ton of bricks:

“Do NOT say you’re interested in cooking!” a little colored blurb on the instruction sheet shouted up at me. “Nobody cares. It will not get you a job.”

And that was the end of this camel. I crumpled up onto the floor, and I sobbed my whole life story, my whole CV, away. What would have been an acceptable activity, one that they claimed would have gotten me the job? Tennis. In my anger I thought finishing first in my class at Le Cordon Bleu would have been just as heavy a qualification as sitting down and watching Wimbledon. “I’m not going!” I called out to no one. Why would they admit a cook if “cooking” will never get me anywhere?!

Cordon Bleu Class

My class and chefs at Le Cordon Bleu, in Paris

But still I found myself, three days ago, lying in bed waiting to begin my first day at school. At twenty-six I felt no different than kindergarten six. I had bought new pencils (light blue and lovely), and couldn’t sleep, and wished I still had a little green uniform hung up in my closet instead of having to pick something in the morning. I stared at the ceiling in the darkness. When Mr. English called, I snapped down the phone at him and hung up before he’d finished talking. I crawled out of bed with black bags under my eyes and a chip on my shoulder. I sat through 10 hours of induction. And then, with a handful of new friends, I attended the Women in Business event, without much expectation, still not really knowing what I was doing with this latest addition to the Education section of my CV.

“Kerry,” one of my friends shook me out of my daze, “the keynote speaker is in food!”

I grabbed the paper from her hand, and I looked. Pinky Lilani OBE, a self-taught Indian home cook, who had changed the landscape of English cuisine with her books and her consulting at mega supermarkets. She got up, and as she spoke, she reminded me of something that I often forget. After all, success is success, whether it’s on the trading floor or the kitchen floor, and as much as I spurned and judged the names like Goldman Sachs and McKenzie, I too can feel like a rat in a race.

But she reminded me of the most basic thing that I’ve always loved about food: it stops people. I remember racing down the High Street in Oxford once, and Pizza Hut started giving out free slices of pizza. Everyone simply stopped, stopped whatever it was they were doing, and started eating, and chatting, and above all else, they started smiling. When Pinky walked up to her podium, you could see she was just like her food: wholesome, but spicy. She had sass, and poise; an unassuming manner, but an Everest of accomplishments. For the first time since I’d really pondered this whole MBA affair, I felt inspired.

Spicy Bombay Potatoes

Spicy Bombay Potatoes. Photograph from

Soon, Pinky pulled out an enormous platter of her famous spicy Bombay potatoes, and all the strung out, exhausted girls in the room gasped. And Pinky made the brave announcement, “If any of you here at school ever need a home-cooked meal, you’re always welcome at my table.” And looking around the room, at women who had come from America and India, South Africa and Scandinavia, I realized that there are ways to feed people even without food. The color had come back in the room. And though none of us had yet tasted those Spicy Bombay Potatoes, we were all somehow much fuller.

And there, in that fluorescent-lit lecture theater, among all the power brokers, I sat looking at this lovely, happy, woman who had found her way to personal success and who had helped to change the world simply because she did what she loved, and because she didn’t take no for an answer. And even among the power-brokers, seeing how they fell weak at the knees at the sight of those Spicy Bombay Potatoes, I felt for the first time like maybe I too was a force to be reckoned with. And that maybe, after all was said and done, I held the most power after all.

Pommes frites, anyone?

Pinky’s new book Coriander Makes the Difference will be released shortly…

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Categories: People