French in a Flash: Choucroute Nouvelle

RECIPE: Choucroute Nouvelle
Choucroute Nouvelle

Choucroute Nouvelle

Some things in life were never meant to be updated. A rewritten version of Great Expectations, for example, would fall far short of the original. Nothing is quite as lovely and elegant as the original Coco Chanel tweed suit. The Plaza hotel in New York, now renovated, cannot hold a candle to the original elegance of The Plaza of old. Perfect the first time, such things age gracefully.

Other things, like iPhones and Prius-es and Choucroute usually improve with every generation. Normally, my renovation of classic French dishes is inspired by how much I adore the original version. Occasionally, it is my distaste for the original version that goads me into developing the, say, Second Generation of Choucroute. It’s a rare thing, but it happens.

In this week’s French in a Flash, I recount an episode of when my father and I took Mr. English to Chez X (our favorite uptown French restaurant despite the events of that evening), so that I might impress him with a lovely French dinner. He ordered the choucroute, a crock pot steaming with sauerkraut, sausages, and par-boiled bits of pale ham. It was awful.

Choucroute Nouvelle Ingredients

Sausage and Savoy Cabbage

In honor of Mr. English’s 25th birthday, and in yet another attempt to impress him, I reinvented it, and brought some twenty-first century youth to an ancient dish. The sauerkraut is replaced with braised Savoy cabbage, topped with a melange of sausages, steamed in traditional Alsatian Riesling and crisped in butter. Whole grain mustard and a thick pan gravy (Mr. English’s favorite) finish the dish. Voila! Choucroute Nouvelle. As always, the whole post, article and recette, can be found at Serious Eats. Bon app!

Choucroute Nouvelle
serves 4

Choucroute NouvelleChoucroute Ingredients

  • 12 links assorted large sausages

  • 2 tablespoons butter

  • About 1 bottle Riesling

  • Salt and pepper

Choucroute Procedure

  1. Melt the butter in a sauté pan with high sides on medium heat.  Arrange the sausages in the pan, and brown for 2 minutes, until a little crust appears on the bottom sides.  While they’re cooking, use the point of a sharp knife to stab each sausage three times along its length, leaving little nostrils for the sausages to “breathe” through while they cook.  At the end of the 2 minutes, flip the sausages and create the same holes on the reverse side.

  2. Add enough Riesling to cover the sausages about 2/3 the way up.  You don’t need to wait for the other side to brown.  Reserve at least ¼ cup of the wine, but chances are, you won’t even need that much.  Season the cooking liquid with salt and pepper.  Flip the sausages every so often as they cook.

  3. Allow most of the wine to boil off.  After about 40 minutes, there will be very little liquid left, and it will be stained with sausage juices and thick.  The sausages will begin to brown, so knock the heat down to medium.

  4. When the sausages are crisp and golden on both sides, remove them from the pan to a plate.  Add in the ¼ cup of Riesling you reserved earlier, and whisk the pan sauce.

  5. Plate the choucroute by mounding the braised Savoy cabbage in a large, wide bowl.  Then slice all the sausages in half on a angle and arrange them on top.  Pour the pan sauce down over the whole thing, and garnish with fresh flat leaf parsley.  Serve with Dijon mustard and cornichons.

Mustard-Braised Cabbage Ingredients

  • 1 head Savoy cabbage, quartered, cored, and cut into ½-inch strips

  • 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

  • 1 tablespoon Riesling

  • 1 ½ tablespoons butter, plus 1 tablespoon

  • 1 tablespoon olive oil

  • 20 chives, quartered

  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat leaf parsley

  • 1 teaspoon whole grain mustard

  • Salt and pepper

Mustard-Braised Cabbage Procedure

  1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, then add the apple cider vinegar, Riesling, and a handful of salt.

  2. Add the cabbage to the water, and blanch for 3 minutes.  Drain, and run until cold water.

  3. In the same pot, that is now dry, put the heat on low, and add 1 ½ tablespoon butter and the olive oil.  When the butter is melted, add the chives, parsley, and cabbage, and raise the heat to medium-high.  Season with salt and cracked black pepper.  Simmer for 5 minutes until most of the excess water has evaporated.  Stir in the mustard.

  4. Put the braised cabbage in a large bowl, and top with the remaining tablespoon of butter.  Top with the sausages.

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Categories: Eat, French in a Flash, Main Courses, Meat, Recipes, Series

BBC Recipe: Spring Vegetables with Crème Fraîche and Chives

RECIPE: Spring Vegetables with Crème Fraîche and Chives
Spring Vegetables with Crème Fraîche and Chives

Spring Vegetables with Crème Fraîche and Chives

Mother’s Day is the harbinger of spring, so to go with our Norman Apple Cornish Hens, I make a whole brood of light, creamy spring vegetables. Your mother always made you eat your vegetables, so now’s your time to make her eat hers. I’m sure she won’t mind.

Just like we didn’t make any old roast chicken, but made poussins, so we are not serving them with any old boiled vegetables. Instead, you want to select a cornucopia of springtime colors and flavors—think Primavera when you go shopping. Feel free to change things up as well. The list I compiled in the ingredients were available to me that day, but just keep in mind that you want roughly one kilo of baby vegetables. From there, you could use sugar snaps and asparagus tips, or baby zucchini and Chantenay carrots. The more variety, the more interest. This dish is finished with a sprinkling of spring chives and a dollop of luxurious crème fraîche. It is unusual and festive and super easy.

Spring Vegetables with Crème Fraîche and Chives
serves 4

Spring Vegetables with Crème Fraîche and ChivesIngredients

  • 1 ½ tablespoons unsalted butter

  • 9 ounces/258 grams baby or Chantenay carrots

  • 9 ounces/258 grams baby zucchini/courgette

  • 7 ounces/201 grams baby yellow squash

  • 5 ¼ ounces/150 grams haricots verts

  • 4 3/8 ounces/125 grams spring peas

  • 1 cup water

  • Salt and pepper

  • 2-3 tablespoons crème fraîche

  • 1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives


  1. Melt the butter in a large sauté pan. Add the carrots, and toss to coat. Add the water, and season with salt and pepper. Simmer the carrots for 4 minutes.

  2. Add in all the other vegetables, season a bit more, and toss. By the time the water has evaporated, the vegetables will be tender. If they aren’t, simply add a bit more water until they are.

  3. Stir in the crème fraîche and fresh chives, and serve immediately.

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Categories: BBC Radio Recipes, Recipes, Series

BBC Recipe: Norman Apple Hens

RECIPE: Norman Apple Hens


Norman Apple Hens

Norman Apple Hens

The BBC recipes are now available! I’ll publish them as they are released…

My master’s degree from Oxford is in English literature, so it’s no surprise that sometimes in my cooking I wax poetic and get a bit punny with my food. For Mother’s Day, I do just that, preparing Cornish Hens with Spring Vegetables (as in Mother hen, Baby vegetables). Then I added sweet roasted pearl onions, for what little girl didn’t wear her mother’s pearls growing up? If you can’t be a bit precious on Mother’s Day, when can you?

I use the Cornish Game Hens (use Poussins or Coquelets in the UK) because Mother’s Day dinner should be comforting but still a bit dainty and dressed up. Think of all the roast chickens your mother has made for you. Tell her that it was her roast that inspired you, but you wanted to make it special by making miniature, individual birds, and giving them a fancy French makeover. These hens are flavored with the apple and bacon and thyme of Normandy. The birds marinate and tenderize overnight in dry Norman apple cider, are wrapped in rich unsmoked bacon, and fired under Calvados, Norman apple brandy. There is a very delicate sweetness that moistens the meat from the liquors, and the thyme and bacon give an unmistakable earthy woodsiness to the birds. These are your mother’s Sunday roast chicken, but so much more special and thoughtful, just like mom.

Norman Apple Hens
serves 4

Norman Apple Hensingredients

  • 4 Cornish game hens

  • 2 cups Norman apple cider, known as dry cidre bouché

  • 3 stems thyme, plus 6 stems

  • 10 ounces/283 grams pearl onions, peeled

  • 1 tablespoon olive oil, plus 2 tablespoons

  • Salt and pepper

  • 4 slices pancetta, or unsmoked streaky bacon

  • ¼ cup Calvados


  1. The night before you want to cook these, cut the back bone out of each hen so that they have been “butterflied.” Simply sit each bird on its bottom, and run a sharp knife down along either side of its backbone, effectively removing it. Or, just ask your butcher to take care of it for you. Place the four hens in a large sealable plastic storage bag, and add in 2 cups of Norman apple cider (drink the rest!), and 3 stems of thyme. Place the bag into a bowl, and set in the fridge over night.

  2. The day after, when you are ready to make the meal, take the hens out of the fridge to take the chill off, and preheat the oven to 425 degrees F/218 degrees C.

  3. If you can buy your pearl onions frozen and already peeled, then do it. If you can’t, here’s how to peel them without all the fuss. Trim their tops and bottoms off, and put them in boiling water for 2 minutes. Run them under cool water so that you can handle them, and pop them out of their outer layers.

  4. Toss the pearl onions with 1 tablespoon of olive oil, and season with salt and pepper.

  5. Prepare a baking sheet by lining it with aluminum foil. Drain the birds of the marinade, and pat them dry with paper towel. Rub the birds with 2 tablespoons of olive oil, both the top and under sides, and season with salt and pepper. Nest each bird, cut side down, on the baking sheet, and scatter the seasoned pearl onions around them.

  6. On top of each bird, sprinkle some of the leaves from 6 stems of thyme, and place 1 slice of pancetta over the center of the breast. If you can’t find sliced pancetta, and are using unsmoked bacon, you’ll want to cut the bacon in half and drape the two halves over the bird.

  7. Cover the birds with aluminum foil, and roast for 20 minutes. Then remove the foil, and roast another 25 minutes. The internal temperature should be about 180 degrees F/82 degrees C.

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Categories: 60 Minutes, BBC Radio Recipes, Eat, Main Courses, Poultry, Recipes, Series

French in a Flash: 80-Cent Citrus Corn-Muffin Madeleines with Raspberry Confiture

RECIPE: 80-Cent Citrus Corn-Muffin Madeleines with Raspberry Confiture
Raspberry Corn Madeleines

Raspberry Corn Madeleines

As I wrote last month, Madeleines are to me the quintessential decadent breakfast of my childhood. But our tough times require us to rework decadent into everyday. These Madeleines are made from 49-cent Jiffy corn muffin mix, scented with the zests of orange and lemon, and stuffed with good raspberry jam. They have the distinct French shape with an unmistakable American flavor and ingenuity. Maybe tough times aren’t so hard to swallow after all…

Especially if you wash them down with a glass of cold milk or dunk them in your morning coffee.

As always, the full recipe and the full article text for this week’s French in a Flash is on Serious Eats! Bon app!

Corn Madeleine Back

80-Cent Citrus Corn-Muffin Madeleines with Raspberry Confiture

Raspberry Corn MadeleinesIngredients

  • 1 box Jiffy corn muffin mix

  • 1 egg

  • 1/3 cup whole milk

  • Zest of 1/2 orange

  • Zest of 1/2 lemon

  • 1/4 cup good quality raspberry jam or preserves (recommended: Bonne Maman)


  1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.

  2. In a large bowl, whisk together the corn muffin mix, egg, milk, and citrus zests. Allow to sit for 4 minutes. Then stir again quickly just before dolloping it into the Madeleine pans.

  3. Spray one 12-madeleine pan with nonstick cooking spray, or grease lightly with vegetable oil or butter. Spoon one overflowing tablespoon full of batter into each shell mold. Bake for 8 minutes.

  4. After 8 minutes in the oven, pull the madeleines out. Using a pastry bag filled with the raspberry jam, and a tip that is narrow enough to poke a precise hold in the madeleines, but wide enough not to get blocked up by seeds, stab a hole halfway into the center of each madeleine, and pipe the jam in slowly just until the jam fills the hole and starts coming out around the top of the madeleine. Little bullet holes for bleeding hearts. Bake 2 to 4 more minutes—2 minutes until done; 4 minutes until golden and crisp.

  5. Now you have some traditional French cakes flavored with a dash of American ingenuity. Transfer to a cooling rack to cool, or eat warm with extra jam and a cold glass of milk. Parfait!

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Categories: 30 Minutes, Breakfast & Brunch, Cheap, Easy, Eat, French in a Flash, Pastries, Recipes, Series, Vegetarian

Muscat Musketeer

Muscat Grapes

Muscat Grapes and Muscat Wine

I know we’re in the middle of a recession, but if I have one culinary extravagance, it’s fruit. I’d rather spend $2 on a pear that’s perfect, than $1 on a pear that’s hard as rock or mushy as meal and have to throw it away. Isn’t that devastating?! I even have a fruit dealer at my local market who can pick the perfect pear or pomegranate or plum or pomelo every time (he also, coincidentally, knocks some of the price off for me–thanks!).

Three years ago, my “dealer” introduced me to my latest addiction. I was at the market picking up my daily bread and cheese, and I wanted something to go with it. He smiled a grim little grin, like he knew he was letting me in for it. He plucked a perfect, plump grape, a lighter shade of pale green blushing Victorian rose. I popped it in my mouth, and my knees felt weak. Love at first bite. I knew at that moment that it was no apple in the Garden of Eden; there is only one fruit worth falling for, and it is the Muscat grape. The only catch? They were over $10 per pound. I actually saved up for grapes.

Now, April doesn’t mean rain showers. It doesn’t mean daffodils. It means that tiny window of Muscat grape eating is here again, and I’ve been eating them at a rate of about a bunch per day for the last week. Why? Because it seems that even Muscat grape stock is down! They’re selling at Whole Foods for just $2.99 per pound; only 50 cents more than regular unreliable sweet-tart green table grapes.

They taste of sweet flowers and what I imagine ambrosia must have tasted like. Sweet and fresh and fragrant. And you can wash them down with a glass of muscat dessert wine (made in France!).

The Musketeers were all for one, and one for all. I’m all for one thing too: Muscat! A Muscateer pour toujours!

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Categories: Finds

BBC: A Face for Radio

Kerry with Lemons

Digging for lemons in the Covered Market, Oxford

The BBC Radio Oxford website is up! It is in its skeletal form, but eventually, all the recipes, pictures, and links will be posted HERE.

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Categories: BBC Radio Recipes, Series

Dear Diary…


Pomegranate Molasses

Pomegranate Molasses

Every time I use it, people gape, mouth askew, and demand, “What is that?”

Pomegranate Molasses Cookies

Pomegranate Molasses Cookies

Actually, I have many secret ingredients, and now I have another new series at Serious Eats to showcase them. I love to shop, from Prada to parsley, and I hardly make it out of a gourmet shop without some little bottle of some dashing elixir tucked away for further use. Most of the time, they sound so appealing in the shop, but then they just sit there, alone and neglected in my pantry, and I have buyer’s remorse, just like when a dress goes unworn in my closet.

Pomegranate Molasses BBQ Ribs

Pomegranate Molasses BBQ Ribs

So, I’ve taken to experimenting: uncovering esoteric ingredients, and telling you what they are, where they come, and what to do with them, recipes included. March’s Secret Ingredient is one of my all-time favorites: Pomegranate Molasses, cheap and chic (and sweet/tart!). And in this month’s installment, I show you how to make Pomegranate Molasses and Pine Nut Cookies, and Pomegranate Molasses Barbecue Sauce for Pomegranate Molasses BBQ Pork Ribs.

Now, I’m sharing this secret with you. But shh! Don’t you tell on me…

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Categories: Series, The Secret Ingredient